TransAm Day #41 DuBois, WY - Jenny Lake, WY
TransAm Day #41
July 6, 2018
DuBois, WY - Jenny Lake, WY
72 Miles
Ride Time 5:48 Hours
Tour Total Miles 2968
Last night in the community room of St. Thomas Episcopal Church in DuBois, I slept about as well as anyone could on a floor surrounded by thirteen other cyclists. I was directly under the ceiling fan, which I later learned was a good thing. Others later complained that they were too warm or disturbed by a snorer.
DuBois is a genuine cowboy town. The sidewalks are made of wood planks. The portico columns are burled wood. There are bars with plenty of large dead animals on the walls, a cafe that cut me off after six beers last night, and several galleries selling Western and Native American art. It’s a nice little town.
Kyle, Max and I had breakfast at the Cowboy Cafe. Before heading out of town we met up with the whole gang at the giant Jackalope.
We are now a pack of nine. Kyle is from South Africa. Max is from LA. Sam and Steph are from England. Jay and his friend are from New Zealand. Together with the ACA group, there's a critical mass of westbound cyclists on this segment today.
It was a little chilly so I started with my sweater until things warmed up. I was once again following the Wind River. I passed more of those beautiful stripe painted buttes, and was able to take photos today. They can’t be done justice. I passed more patches of these little yellow wildflowers that smell so good.
Yesterday I failed to mention that the winds had been favorable. If I forget to mention wind conditions in an entry, that means they were good. I only whine, bitch, and complain when they’re cruel to me.
I rode through Shoshone National Forest, where a sign warned about bears. I’m glad to have the bear spray Jeff gave me in Kansas. Yesterday Saemundur told me a story about having seen a grizzly bear. I’ve swallowed numerous bugs today. I assume that they die pretty quickly, because I’ve never felt anything crawling around in my throat or stomach.
I passed the Hack Memorial which commemorates the timber men who, back in the day, would cut railroad ties in these parts. The wood would be hacked and stacked during the winter. In spring they would be released down the river. Many men drowned and entire tie flows lost in the unpredictable currents.
ACA Map panel #50 honors Bill and Lynne Combs. This is the first instance I’ve noticed someone’s name on a map panel. This is one of the most beautiful sections of the TransAm, and the Combs are indeed honored. My first map panel in Yorktown was #150. I’m now two thirds through the route, which is sad for me. I talked with an east-bounder today, who asked me what my favorite part had been. I replied that even the bad had been good.
I passed an enormous stone range that looked like a fortress. I later learned that it’s called Pinnacle Ridge. I did my best to photograph it. When I reached my closest approach, I noticed a grey structure on top, which I guessed to be an observatory. The flies and mosquitoes were after me on the climb up to Togwotee pass. At the top, a guy pulling an airstream give me the thumbs up. I didn’t reciprocate.
Let’s talk a little bit about recreational vehicles and campers. There is nothing recreational about driving your plastic shack to the woods and living in a plastic shack. You’re not camping in a camper; you’re living in a plastic shack. Touring bikes are recreational vehicles. Tents are used for camping. RV’s should be called plastic shacks for disgusting fat people, or PSDFP’s for short. National parks shouldn’t allow them. I’m not even going to go into their carbon footprints. Sheesh
I crossed the Continental Divide and said goodbye to the Wind River. I entered Bridger Teton National Forest where I met east-bounder Carl from British Columbia who was riding a recumbent tricycle and pulling a trailer. He’s headed to Colorado.
The Grand Tetons came into view for the first time. They are the most dramatic mountain range I have ever seen. They don’t seem real. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a dragon flying over the top at any moment. They are absolutely stunning!
I stopped at the Togwotee Exxon, where a large Gatorade and two power bars cost me $10.50. This was the intersection between the TransAm and the ACA Great Divide Trail, which goes from Banff, Alberta to Mexico. I met several people doing it on mountain bikes. They travel on off-road paths and fire trails.
I got to Jackson Lake Junction before the others, and set up my hammock to edit this draft. The Grand Tetons are amazing! When the others caught up we took the Teton spur down to Jenny Lake. The lodge wouldn’t let us eat there or even enter, but they brought us beers out to the front porch. The huge mountains are in my face, and they are amazing!
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