TransAm Day #67 Nehalem Bay State Park, OR - Astoria, OR

TransAm Day #67

August 2, 2018

Nehalem Bay State Park, OR - Astoria, OR

56 Miles

Ride Time 4:29 Hours

Tour Total  Miles 4605

details at: https://cyclemeter.com/4b2d99e24f1383f2/Cycle-20180802-0842-31208

The hike and bike campsite at Nehalem Bay State Park had sand-filled platforms for tents, and it was a comfortable night’s sleep. I awoke to mist and fog. There was sand and pine needles stuck to everything. My tent and fly were soaking wet, and there are few things I loathe more than packing soggy gear. 

I sat with the others at a picnic table. Eileen cooked the Cup-a-Noodle soup she had coerced me to buy in Lochsa Lodge. It was our last camp meal together, and the mood was somber. After Astoria, Scott would be continuing his tour south to San Francisco, so Eileen presented him with her titanium spork for the journey. We all took our Cognitols. Klaus offered me cookies with the same hand he had just used to apply his chamois butter. 

I set off in my sweater, rain jacket, and leg warmers. It started raining, so I stopped to put on my shoe covers and turn on my lights. The visibility was poor, and the road was twisty with a narrow shoulder. The traffic was heavy and it was a narly ride. I focused on the white line, and rode without goggles because the rain drops and humidity fogged up my lenses. The only way I could distinguish cars was by their headlights. 

I rode through a tunnel, which I shared with motorists. I later learned that I was supposed to have pushed a button that activated lights to alert drivers to my presence. I continued to see more large rock formations off the coast. It was tricky crossing the highway to admire them, because of all the traffic. 

I arrived at Cannon Beach before the others. It was filled with tourists, and there were lines in front of the cafes and coffee shops. We went to the Lazy Susan Cafe where I had the omelet special with orange juice and coffee. It was expensive and they only accepted cash. Afterwards they were very pushy about turning over the table. It felt like being back in New York. I already miss the small town cafes in the desert. 

Lewis and Clark came through this area in 1805, after they had reached the Pacific. They had found a 105‘ whale on the beach, where they cut off large pieces of blubber. The traffic on US Highway 101 continued to be heavy. I was unable to take any photos because my fingers were completely wet and my iPhone was unresponsive. Everything was damp. It was sad to be on TransAm map panel number one. Like with other big projects that I’ve poured my heart, soul, time and sweat into, the culminations are anti-climactic and bittersweet. 

Steve commented on Facebook, “It's a strange, empty feeling at the end...I've only ridden about 100 miles total since I've been back. Struggling to come up with another adventure to plan for so I can get excited again...love being home with the family, but need something big and challenging to look forward to.”

In Seaside the sun finally came out, and there was a nice bike lane that followed the beach. I removed my sweater and we took a fun group photo at the sea wall. Seaside reminded me of the Jersey shore. There was a carousel and other family attractions. We went to the Seaside Brewery where I had a Marionberry Ale. The bartender was friendly and bought us all a round. We noticed a backpacker with a cat riding on top of his pack. There are numerous hikers and bikers along this coast. 

For the final stretch into Astoria I got off US Highway 101, and on to a local route, Lewis and Clark Road. I noticed clear-cut scars on the hills. 

I missed a sneaky left hand turn and went several miles off route before I realized I had made a mistake. There was no phone service, and I was concerned that the others would beat me to Astoria and not understand where I had gone. I caught up to them though, and learned that they had missed the turn as well.

Everything is named Lewis and Clark around here- the river, the bridge, the school, and even the Mini Mart. It was like Christmas morning for me and I couldn’t wait to unwrap the presents. I was the first across the bridge and the first to the Astoria sign, where the lawn was littered with dog poop. 

We took our group photo at the sign before continuing to the end of the trail at the Maritime Museum. The path led us along a boardwalk with trolley tracks. The gaps between the wood planks were wide enough for our tires to slip through, and Klaus’s actually did. 

We took photos in front of the large anchor at the Maritime Museum. Eileen went to get a bottle of champagne, and met us at the water’s edge at the base of the Megler Bridge. I dipped my front tire into the Pacific and it was official. I had ridden my bike from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. We took photos and drank champagne. 

It was getting late and we found a room at The Atomic Motel. Eileen and Klaus took the twin, and Scott and I shared the queen. I unpacked and hung all of my wet gear up to dry. After our showers we went to the Buoy Brewery for a few pints. We admired a large sleeping sea lion beneath the glass floor and right above the water. 

We proceeded to the Fort George Brewery where I enjoyed an Oyster Po Boy. I regretted not bringing stickers for the bathroom tag wall, but I was no longer technically on tour. It was starting to drizzle when we left, but the bike parking racks had individual overhead awnings, proving once again that Oregon is the future. Eileen, Klaus, and I proceeded to the Chart Room for one last drink. It was raining when we left, and I got soaked riding back to the motel. 

The next morning I rode up to the Astoria Column at the top of the largest steepest hill in town. From the top I could see the entire city, the Columbia River, and Washington State in the distance. The column is painted with scenes of the Lewis and Clark exhibition, and I ran up the spiral staircase to the top. 

The others were awake when I got back to the motel. Eileen and I rode to Bikes and Beyond bike shop to ship our bikes back home, while Klaus picked up a U-haul truck to bring his rental and Scott’s bike down to Portland. Scott and I rode in the back of the truck to breakfast. It was pitch dark in the back, and Scott got noxious. 

At Pigs and Pancakes, I got a message from Becky’s boyfriend. She was at the Astoria library and her phone was broken. We drove over and offered her a ride to Portland. Becky and I sat in the back of the truck with the three bikes and gear. Klaus rigged an overhead light, and I inflated my Therm-o-rest. Becky and I shared adventure stories all the way down to Portland. It was great to see her again. The last time I had seen her was in Golden City, MO. After she replaces her phone, she’ll be continuing her tour north to Canada for another few weeks. 

In Portland I dropped off my things with my friend Justin. I later met up with the TransGang- Eileen, Scott, Klaus, Kyle, Brythnie, Astrid, Becky, Sam and Steph. It was an epic celebration and great to see everyone again. Kyle forgot my sock. 

I’ll eventually write an epilogue, and I definitely want to write a review of my gear list. I’ll get around to editing entries, but I won’t be able to do anything until after I get home. For the moment, I’m decompressing. I’m staying out on the west coast for a few weeks visiting friends, and Charlotte is joining me. The tour is over. It was a epic adventure, that I would highly recommend. Thanks for following me. 

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