TransAm Day #45 Ennis, MT - Dillon, MT
TransAm Day #45
July 10, 2018
Ennis, MT - Dillon, MT
73 Miles
Ride Time 6:12 Hours
Tour Total Miles 3240
I slept well last night in my tent out back of Willie’s Distillery in Ennis, alongside the mosquitoes, deer, and deer patties. I believe all the the deer were drawn to the grain from the distillery. I was having a dream this morning about rolling up my wet tent. I woke up and had to roll up my wet tent. I haven’t seen so much condensation since before the Rockies.
Last night after I filed my report, I met Scott and Eileen at the Bear Trap, where I had ribs. It was one of the nicest dinners on the tour. The $22 meal in the charming sophisticated environment would have easily been four times that price in Brooklyn.
I met a number of retired gentlemen yesterday in Ennis. They were all interested that I was a cycling across the country. At the campground where I took a shower and washed my clothes, I talked with Jim, who's driving around Montana tent camping. He had been in Ennis on July Fourth and made me promise to take a picture of the Madison River Valley from up on the pass. He said that locals refer to tourists in their ‘RVs’ as tourons. At the Gravel Bar, while I was trying to edit my journal, I talked with Matt, a nurse from Oregon, who's traveling by motorcycle. He was staying at the hotel next to the distillery. He tried to be sympathetic about the wind and car traffic, but it’s not the same. He warned me about the Lolo pass after Missoula, which is under construction. Last night after dinner, I met Bill, originally from Ohio, who now lives here. He laughed when I explained my route. He told me all about Montana and what lies ahead for me. Montana only has a million residents. It truly is big sky country, and there’s not much in between towns. He said that the wealthy transplants from California were much worse than the big money from the east coast. Scott and Eileen met someone yesterday who gave them $40. Not that I'm ungrateful for yesterday's long-winded stories. What do I expect, after all I am the #RustyCrank.
I was packed and on the road as Scott and Eileen were just getting up. The plan was to eat breakfast after the pass. First thing, I climbed a nine mile long 2100’ high pass over the Tobacco Root Mountains Gravelly Range, leaving behind the Madison River Valley. I admired the view from up top, and took a photo. The highway speed limit here is seventy miles an hour during the day and sixty five at night, presumably because of wildlife. Home on the range where the deer and antelope play. It’s true here! I saw deer and antelope playing this morning on my way up the pass.
After a five mile rapid eight percent descent, I entered Virginia City, an old mining town from the 1863 gold rush. It was charming and touristy, and unfortunately none of the restaurants were open. I continued a mile down the road to Nevada City, where I went to the Star Bakery, which would find itself right at home on Wythe Avenue in Brooklyn. It was pretentious, expensive, and I was still hungry when I left.
In the Ruby Valley there were many huge rock and trailing piles- the size of barns, left over from the gold mining. Back in the day this route was known as the Vigilante Trail, because of all the robbers. Crooks were given seven hours, seven minutes, and seven seconds to leave town or be hung. The numbers 7-7-7 could be seen all along the trail. 7-7-7 remains part of the Montana highway patrol emblem.
In Sheridan I met eastbound TransAm cyclist Bran, who had done the Bike Centennial back in 1976. He cautioned me about sunburn and melanoma. In Twin Bridges I picked up the Lewis and Clark Trail. There were historical signs and stops along the way.
Following the Beaverhead River, after Twin Bridges, I picked up a headwind. My average speed was ten miles an hour and it was brutal. I noticed a lot of skunk roadkill today. I stopped at Beaverhead Rock, which was instrumental to the Core of Discovery in 1805. It was August and they were desperate for horses to carry them over the Rockies before winter arrived. Their guide Sacagawea recognized the rock outcrop and was then able to guide them to the Shoshone tribe, who sold them horses.
The wind picked up closer to Dylan. I was headed southwest, and could only make eight miles an hour. There was a huge storm to the east, but I was spared. In the Beaverhead Valley I passed cow pastures. In addition, they grow grass to make hay for the cattle. The fields are watered with giant spokes that rotate from a central axis. I also noticed a lot of sheep today.
Three miles out of Dillon two eastbounders flagged me down. They had a flat tire and their pump was broken. Lilia and Jack are doing the TransAm and are raising money for NAMI, the National Alliance on Mental Illness. They have a Go Fund Me page called Ride for your Mind. I was able to get them patched, inflated, and back on the road.
On the edge of Dillon, I had twenty lemonades at the gas station. Afterwards I went to the Beaverhead Brewery, and then to Mac's Last Cast Sports Bar for a chicken fried steak. Every town, bar, and gas station appears to have a casino. Scott and Eileen are behind me still battling the head wind.
Way good Rob really enjoying your account,have always been curious about Montana,going soon gonna be a dental floss tycoon...zappa
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