TransAm Day #24 Chanute, KS - Cassoday, KS
TransAm Day #24
June 18, 2018
Chanute, KS - Cassoday, KS
99 Miles
Ride Time 7:38 Hours
Tour Total Miles 1779
I slept like a corpse in a morgue last night at the Knights Inn in Chanute, as Steve likes his hotel rooms below freezing. I had to chip ice off my laundry line this morning.
We had agreed that the only way to deal with this ridiculous Kansas heat and 28 mile an hour winds, was to start our rides at 4am. We got up at 3:30 and I, at least, was on the road on schedule. It was still dark, but I had my front and rear lights blazing. It wasn’t chilly. The temperature was perfect. Up above, the stars were twinkling and I could even see the Milky Way. I was unable to see my maps or anything on my bike, but it’s second nature by now and I could access my water bottles and gear shifters by feel. The route was basically a straight line. I just had to watch for potholes, and the pavement surface wasn’t bad. It was a small country road, and I could literally see cars coming from ahead or behind for a good mile. There was very little traffic, and I basically had the road to myself.
After having passed some fifty dead carcasses since crossing the Mississippi River, I finally saw my first live armadillo in the middle of the road. Miles had told me that when they’re scared they spring vertically straight up off the ground. That’s why I see so many dead ones. They jump right up into the oncoming vehicle. I did my wild cougar squeal but he just stared at me.
At about 4:45, the stars began to fade with the penumbra of twilight. When there was finally enough light to see, I realized that I didn’t even have the right map panels in front of me. This cost me an early breakfast, as I blew right past Benedict. Who knows. Maybe there wasn’t anything open. It didn’t matter. I had Cliff bars, and was enjoying my ride.
Between Corryville and Toronto my paper maps showed a place to eat. It even appeared on my Garmin - the first time I’ve noticed a restaurant icon on that device. I'd been riding for thirty-three miles and was ready for a break. When I reached the restaurant it was shuttered and looked like it had been for a long time. Even the soda machine out front was empty, so I tagged it with a #rustycrank sticker.
By 7am I was down to half a liter of water. I had ridden forty miles. Nothing in Toronto was open, as Brian had warned me. I had to knock on somebody’s door to ask for water. They told me that a place would be open two miles north of town. The little country store and gas station was absolutely charming. It was run by a sweet older couple. The gentleman had the TransAm race up on his iPad and asked me if I was one of the racers. The woman made me two egg sandwiches with bacon and cheese on biscuits. It was so good! Workers were busy repairing the roof above, and I could hear screw-guns rat-tat-tat-ing. I was asked to sign the cyclist registry and saw Brian and Andy’s names. The man gave me a small rubber lizard and zip-tie and told me to fasten it to my brake cable, which I did.
I turned west onto State Route 54 which was like a two lane interstate. It was aggravating riding alongside speeding trucks that wouldn’t give me an inch when they passed. I saw a historical marker indicating that this area is called the Blue Stem Pasture Region. There were no longer any trees. The bare landscape is beautiful, but I wouldn’t want to be stuck out here without any water or in a storm.
I passed an eastbound cyclist riding alongside a van with an additional bike on top and motivational music blaring from a speaker. It had a Ride Across America banner. I saw several more of these riders and vans throughout the day. I admire and have the utmost respect for the racers who are putting in two hundred plus miles every day unassisted for the TransAm Bike Race, but these assisted Ride Across America guys are pussies. Go home to your spin class.
In Eureka I stopped at Johnson’s General Store for fruit punch and ice. I met an elderly man buying lottery tickets. It was another forty miles to my destination in Cassoday, and it was hot. I noticed last night that the top of my helmet has become bleached from the intense sun. My hair has grown out to about 3/8 of an inch and I doubt there’s any chance of a Michael Riscica helmet tan. I’ve seen more oil pumpjacks today and one of them was working. I’ve heard lots of bobwhite calls. Kansas smells like grass, and not the kind people smoke.
I stopped to take a panoramic photo of a set of stunning rolling hills. I was still on State Route 54 and there was still tons of traffic. The sun was so bright, and I was having difficulty reading my iPhone. I had attached it to my power pack earlier and noticed that it wasn’t charging. This would soon effect my mileage and mapping apps, and I was frustrated. I lost my balance and fell to my right and my foot was still clipped in. I tumbled onto large rocks and badly bruised my right bicep, skinned my right knee, and gashed the fingers on my right hand. I cursed loudly.
I finally came to Rosalia where I could exit 54 and turn north onto a country road for my last seventeen miles. There were no services and a man offered me water. I caught a 28mph tailwind and averaged over twenty miles an hour while I jammed to Beck’s Odelay. It was pretty awesome! There were no white lines on these country roads, nor lines whatsoever. There were no rumble strips as well.
Cassoday is like a Wild West ghost town. There are horse tie-ups and wooden plank sidewalks under porticos. But everything was closed. Fortunately, on the far edge of town adjacent to the park where we’ll be sleeping, a restaurant was open. While I worked on this post, Steve repaired another broken spoke.
Arrangements have been made with my Colorado team to cross the border on Friday. A barbecue with steaks and beer is being planned. I should note that my proposed itinerary is now off by more than five days. I’m way ahead of schedule. Somewhere, I’m going to have to take some time off. Perhaps I’ll ride down to Jackson Hole, Wyoming and spend more time at Yellowstone. Timing could change, though, at a moment’s notice. I’ve been very lucky so far.
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